I’d heard people talk about Jibhi long before I actually got there, and most of what they said undersold it. Everyone kept calling it “offbeat,” which made me picture a small hamlet with not much activity. What I found instead was a valley so calm and so scenic that I ended up walking a lot more than I’d planned, simply because I didn’t want the feeling to end.
A quiet start
The first thing that struck me was the silence and serenity. No honking, no shop announcements, just the Tirthan river running along the road and wind moving through the deodar forest. I’d stepped off the bus expecting to feel a bit lost, but Jibhi has a way of settling you almost immediately. The air smelled of pine and woodsmoke, and everything felt relaxed in the best possible way.
The walk to Jibhi Waterfall
My first proper walk was to Jibhi Waterfall, which sits just outside the village and is an easy stroll through the forest. It isn’t a thundering waterfall, but more a gentle cascade tucked behind mossy rocks. Along the way, I passed wooden cottages with apple trees growing right outside them, and a few cafes where locals sat with their morning tea.
Chehni Kothi, the old wooden tower
A quick ride and a bit of ascending from Jibhi leads one to Chehni Kothi, a lofty wooden observation tower in the nearby village of Chehni. It is made completely out of wood and stone. It resembles old Himachali architecture and is reputed to be centuries old. En route to the ascent, one comes across the Shringa Rishi Temple, which has wooden carved pillars and a pagoda-type roof. Neither of the places looked crowded or dirty, and they contributed to a delightful journey.
The climb to Jalori Pass
Jalori Pass is close enough to make for a proper day trip, and if you enjoy walking, this is where Jibhi really shows off. It was once used as a route connecting Shimla and Kullu, and the road up is narrow and winding, with forest pressing in on either side. The trail from the pass onward is steep in patches, but the views make you forget your legs are tired. On a clear day, you can see the Dhauladhar and Pir Panjal ranges folding into the distance.
Serolsar Lake and Raghupur Fort
From Jalori Pass, a forest trek leads to Serolsar Lake, a quiet lake tucked among deodar trees and said to be sacred to the local goddess. Locals say no leaf ever settles on its surface, as birds keep it clear, though I can’t vouch for that myself. Further along, a steeper trail leads to Raghupur Fort, an old ruin believed to have been built by the rulers of Mandi. Not much remains beyond a few stone walls now, but the walk there, through oak forest with the Himalayas in view, is worth it on its own.
Village life and where to stay
My favourite part of my visit, however, was strolling through Jibhi village. The slopes are lined with apple orchards, and the villagers take care of them, barely paying any heed to the occasional wanderer passing by. I got into a conversation with an old gentleman living in the house near the village, who told me how quiet and peaceful this place used to be a decade ago, before it got popular. This is still a relaxed place today, although there are many more cafes and inns compared to the past.
Which brings me to the point that if you are planning a trip to Jibhi, don’t risk leaving it till the last minute. I got accommodated in the place right on the hill, with the proper view of the valley from my balcony, and I checked out a few hotels in Jibhi while I was there, each being pretty much of the same style, small wooden buildings blending into the surroundings.
Leaving Jibhi
By the time I left, my legs were properly tired, and my phone was full of photos I’ll probably never sort through properly. However, what stayed with me wasn’t any single view or walk. It was just how unhurried the whole place felt. Himachal has plenty of well-known hill stations, but Jibhi showed me a quieter, gentler side of the state, one that doesn’t ask for attention and is all the better for it.